Acrylic windshields should be cleaned with a soft cloth (microfiber cloths work very well) and soapy water. Acrylic-specific products such as Novus work very well and they have a fulll  line of cleaners and scratch removers. Our recommendation is to remove minor scratches with progressively finer polishes but to stay away from major scratches. The rule of thumb is that if your nail hangs up on the scratch, when you take it out with sand paper and polishes, the resulting divot will produce an annoying optical distortion.

 

 

Do not use cleaners that contain ammonia (Windex or 409) or petroleum distilates as they chemically attack the acrylic and eventually cause crazing, which are those tiny cracks that glint in the sun.

 

Coated acrylics need no such instructions since it will resist even acetone.

 

If a crack is noticed, immediately drill a 1/8" hole on the end of it to keep it from travelling while you hunt for a new piece.

 

 

 

 

Acrylic expands and contracts more than fiberglass. That is why windshields are always provided with rubber grommets of vinyl inserts.

 

Center the windshield on it's slot and make sure of a correct fit and does not hang up on the console lip. if holes must be drilled, check the grommet size (Lavelle Grommets will ususally require a 5/16" diameter hole). Drill the center hole first and install the grommets, screw and finish washer. tighten down until the grommet begins to mushroom around the finish washer - DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN - If using an electric screw gun make sure that the clutch is set low.

 

Install the remaining screws from the center outboard making sure that the acrylic is straight between holes and does not bunch up.

 

Finally tighten screws by hand allowing some movement of the windshield.